Pablo Zitzmann started making dim sum out of his Kendall, Florida condo when he got laid off during the pandemic, and the Coral Gables restaurant he opened since, the eponymous Zitz Sum, has been named one of the best in the country by the James Beard Foundation. He talked about fusing Latin American flavors into Chinese cuisine in a way that is “appreciation” not “appropriation,” and how it is the heart of the restaurant. He talked about having to walk out of the kitchen to shed tears upon learning of his James Beard nomination. And why a restaurant kitchen was a natural home for him after being a punk rocker and skateboarder in Colombia.
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