I visit James Kummrow on the coldest day in Melbourne so far this year. Dodging hail showers, I’m happy just to get through the doors of Fatto Bar & Cantina relatively unscathed. The I meet James, a man who exudes contentment. This is a man who loves what he does. Talking to him, I am treated (as I so often am talking to chefs) to moments of rapture as he articulates his passion for hospitality and the journey that brought him to where he is. And where he is, Fatto, is a place he even comes to, even on his days off, as a patron. That’s how much he loves it.

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