Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough.Guest links:WebsiteInstagramReference links:Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbersPainfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing | BMJ Open Sport & Exercise MedicineOlympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMedDavid Barrans IFSC HistoryThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:17 - Holidays4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous?26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!!40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries happen from specific occurrences1:07:14 - How injuries show up differently between male and female climbers1:17:56 - Period cycles and injury1:27:54 - DISCORD Q: How to deal with DIP issues/synovitis?1:34:20 - Discord Q: How should an experienced climber integrate more training?1:38:29 - A PT's new years resolution1:40:09 - Closing thoughts + where to find Andy

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