Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Emil Abrahamsson and Dr. Keith Baar

06/11/2024 1h 11min Episodio 159
Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Emil Abrahamsson and Dr. Keith Baar

Listen "Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Emil Abrahamsson and Dr. Keith Baar"

Episode Synopsis

Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including:


Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs)


The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment


Accessing thousands of points of climber data


Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang")


The shocking results of the finger strength study


What the results of the study might mean for how climbers train finger strength


Abra-hang protocol for injured and healthy climbers


Goals for more studies and exploring other variables



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Watch Emil's video recap of the finger strength study over on his YT channel.
Dr. Keith Baar's Article: https://sportsmedicine-open.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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