Tom is team GB’s ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he’s banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circuit that led to his eventual resignation.There is an EXTRA FULL-LENGTH EPISODE available with Tom on Patreon available to members only: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramEmailReference links:Wedge ClimbingJanja Unfiltered Period TalkLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/Recovering from knee surgery5:49 - Starting climbing + competing + coaching10:20 - How he got BANNED from the USA13:18 - How to get into coaching now18:57 - Thoughts on Instagram coaching + current training philosophies25:50 - Coaching Shauna Coxsey into the Olympics34:15 - Why Team GB found such great form in 202437:12 - What makes Toby and Erin stand out from the rest39:12 - Difference between coaching individually vs acting as head coach40:56 - How GB training camps work44:30 - Athlete consistency during comps + period cycles53:45 - Why he quit as head coach of GB1:01:32 - Dealing with a toxic climbing community1:08:38 - The most difficult parts of coaching1:10:56 - Favorite/least favorite travel moments on the circuit1:14:59 - Recommendation to other coaches on stress management1:17:25 - The future of comp climbing + athlete money1:22:45 - "Coaching people to their own individual Olympics"1:26:45 - Tom's future1:28:22 - Discord Q: Does cohesion in a national team make a difference?1:30:48 - Discord Q: Did individual coaching ever interfere with your work as national team coach?1:32:54 - Final thoughts + where to find Tom

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